Jewelry in India was predominantly associated with marriage and with the bride in particular. In ancient India, however, both men and women wore jewelry. Goldsmiths were artisans held in high esteem because not only did they work with precious metals and gems, but also their patrons were kings, queens, rich merchants, dancers, etc. Their mastery was unmatched and the designs that were developed exist even today as part of India's heritage. Each region in India came to be known for its unique style-while in Orissa it was filigree, in Rajasthan it was enameling or meenakari. Even as the temple style of jewelry flourished, Mughal India inspired the kundan style of jewelry making. Meanwhile, the northeast states made jewelry based on nature, incorporating gold and silver with tiger claws and other floral designs. Jewelry was custom built and catered to a wide section of the society. It was used as an investment, a measure of one's wealth, and to negotiate deals in business and marriage. It was also pawned during difficult times to borrow loans.
For Indian women, jewelry gained a very emotional as well as a socioeconomic flavor. Jewelry was a major part of the dowry during the marriage and was not only seen as enhancing the beauty of the bride but also as a financial buffer. "The sanctity that is attached to jewelry can perhaps be attributed to it being an integral part of the traditional stridhana." However, for each woman, the jewelry carried not only monetary value but also emotional value epitomizing the love of her parents. Jewelry was passed down to the daughter and the son's wife as part of the heirloom. A girl in India did not exactly go out and buy what she wanted. Jewelry was chosen for her by the elders as and when finances permitted and accumulated till the girl was of marriageable age.
Apart from the family heirloom ornaments, other jewelry items were painstakingly chosen and bought by the girl's parents. Bracelets, necklaces and earrings that could be coordinated as a set and precious stones and gems that matched with the girl's horoscope. The trousseau most definitely included the compulsory mangalsutra, a badge of marriage, rings, traditional pendants that where specific to the area like the talis in Tamilnadu and vatis in Maharashtra, the nath worn on the nose and the tikka worn on the head adorning the parting of the hair. Jewelry was also bought for the bridegroom and as gifts for his family members, and as a gesture perhaps to put the new bride in a favorable position in her new family.
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